Before fit or graphics, a garment is judged by how the fabric feels in the hand. For a clothing brand, fabric is the single biggest driver of how premium your product feels — and what it costs to make. Here is a plain-English guide to GSM, knit types and fabric weight for hoodies, sweatshirts, tees and joggers.
GSM = grams per square metre, the weight of the fabric. Higher GSM feels heavier and more premium. Streetwear tees sit around 180–240 GSM; hoodies around 300–500 GSM. Knit type (French terry, fleece, jersey) decides the surface and stretch.
What GSM actually means
GSM is the weight of one square metre of fabric — the quickest shorthand for how substantial a garment feels. Two hoodies can use the same cotton but feel completely different at 280 GSM versus 420 GSM. Higher GSM usually means more cotton, more structure and a higher price, but not automatically "better"; the right weight depends on the product and season.
The main knit types
Jersey
Single-knit, smooth face. The standard for T-shirts and lighter tops — light, breathable, drapes close to the body.
French terry
Looped back, mid-weight. Soft, breathable and structured — the go-to for year-round hoodies, crewnecks and joggers.
Brushed fleece
Terry brushed inside for a soft, warm hand. Heavier and cosier — ideal for premium winter hoodies.
Loopback
Open loops left unbrushed. Breathable with a clean inside face — popular for elevated, lighter pieces.
Fabric weight by garment
- T-shirts: 180–240 GSM. Below 180 feels cheap; 220–240 reads premium and holds shape.
- Hoodies & sweatshirts: 300–500 GSM. 320–380 is a solid midweight; 400+ is heavyweight, boutique feel.
- Joggers: 280–400 GSM, balancing structure with comfort and drape.
Fibre, blends and finishes
Beyond weight, fibre and finishing change the result: 100% combed cotton for a clean premium hand, cotton/poly for stability and reduced shrinkage, and cotton/poly/spandex for stretch. Garment, enzyme and pigment washes plus anti-pilling treatments shift the look and durability. The right combination should always be matched to your product, season and target price before sampling.
Build your range
Fabric FAQ
What GSM is best for a premium hoodie?
For a premium, structured hoodie, 380–450 GSM brushed fleece or heavy French terry gives a dense, boutique handfeel. 320–360 GSM works for a versatile year-round midweight.
Is higher GSM always better?
No. Higher GSM feels heavier and often more premium, but a 500 GSM tee would be impractical. Match weight to the garment, season and how you want it to drape.
Can you match a reference garment's fabric?
Yes. Send a reference sample or tech pack and we match fibre, knit, weight and finish, then confirm it on a physical sample before bulk.