Before fit or graphics, a garment is judged by how the fabric feels in the hand. For a clothing brand, fabric is the single biggest driver of how premium your product feels — and what it costs to make. Here is a plain-English guide to GSM, knit types and fabric weight for hoodies, sweatshirts, tees and joggers.
GSM means grams per square metre: fabric mass per unit area. It helps compare weight, but does not establish softness, durability or quality on its own. Choose a weight for the garment, climate and silhouette, then review fibre, yarn, knit construction, finish and sample performance.
What GSM actually means
GSM measures the mass of one square metre of fabric. It is useful when comparing fabric weight, but it does not identify fibre composition, cotton content or garment quality. Fabrics with the same GSM can differ in thickness, stretch, drape and handfeel because their yarns, structures and finishes differ. Compare samples alongside the full fabric specification.
The main knit types
Jersey
Single-knit, smooth face. The standard for T-shirts and lighter tops — light, breathable, drapes close to the body.
French terry
Looped back, mid-weight. Soft, breathable and structured — the go-to for year-round hoodies, crewnecks and joggers.
Brushed fleece
Terry brushed inside for a soft, warm hand. Heavier and cosier — ideal for premium winter hoodies.
Loopback
Open loops left unbrushed. Breathable with a clean inside face — popular for elevated, lighter pieces.
French terry and brushed fleece can also be used for shorts. When developing knitted sweat shorts, match fabric weight and finish to the season, then check drape, waistband recovery and wash shrinkage on a sample.
When shortlisting material for a hoodie or sweatpant, use our guide to comparing cotton and cotton-poly fleece to check composition, finish and approval evidence.
Fabric weight by garment
- T-shirts: 180–240 GSM is one starting range for streetwear development. Lighter fabrics can also suit the design; assess opacity, drape, recovery and wash behavior.
- Hoodies & sweatshirts: 300–500 GSM is a starting range to explore midweight and heavier options. Compare warmth, bulk, drape and recovery on samples rather than using weight as a quality grade.
- Joggers: 280–400 GSM is one starting range. Adjust it for season and silhouette, then review comfort, drape and wash behavior.
Fibre, blends and finishes
Beyond weight, fibre and finishing change the result: 100% combed cotton for a clean premium hand, cotton/poly for stability and reduced shrinkage, and cotton/poly/spandex for stretch. Garment, enzyme and pigment washes plus anti-pilling treatments shift the look and durability. The right combination should always be matched to your product, season and target price before sampling.
For surface durability, use our fabric pilling test and report review guide to check the sample identity, test method and assessment conditions before comparing results.
Build your range
Fabric FAQ
What GSM is best for a premium hoodie?
There is no single GSM that makes a hoodie premium. For a structured style, 380–450 GSM can be a starting range; 320–360 GSM is another option for a lighter design. Choose for the intended climate, silhouette and comfort, then assess fibre, yarn, knit construction, finish and sample performance.
Is higher GSM always better?
No. Higher GSM means more fabric mass per unit area, not automatically better quality. Match weight to the garment, climate and intended drape, and review opacity, recovery, shrinkage and surface durability on samples.
Can you match a reference garment's fabric?
Yes. Send a reference sample or tech pack and we match fibre, knit, weight and finish, then confirm it on a physical sample before bulk.